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A Reassuring Approach to Cooking, Three Ingredients at a Time

A FEW YEARS AGO, when our weathercasters were predicting snowmageddon—or maybe it was a hurricane—I had an opportunity to contemplate what it means to do my job as a food writer.

Whatever the weather turned out to be, it wasn’t as bad as predicted. What proved even worse than I had imagined was my younger brother’s capacity to feed himself in the face of potential restaurant and grocery store closures. Despite growing up in a family of food obsessives, with a mother who, to this day, stocks her kitchen at all times as though…

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